10" Electronic Radial Arm Saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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10" Electronic Radial Arm Saw

A couple of days ago, I posted about a 12" Craftsman band saw I was thinking about buying. Well, I backed out on it as I found a like new Craftsman 10" electronic radial arm saw with the big two door cabinet underneath. Both look like new. It is such a good deal that I hate to pass it up. I already have a 10" table saw and 12" compound sliding miter saw so I really don't need it or have much use for it as far as I can see. I just hate to see such a nice piece get away as I might have a use for it later on. Give me your opinions please. Thanks
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post #2 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 11:03 AM
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I also have been thinking about getting a used radial arm saw too. I have a good table saw and a 12" CM saw but it is not a slider. Thinking the RA saw would be good for cross cutting long wide boards - but more importantly cutting dados from the top side where you can better see the dado.
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 03:33 PM
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A radial arm saw is a great addition to a shop.
That said, good luck with the saw. Imho, it's by far, not one of the better ones Sears sold.

Just curious. What are the "electronic" parts of the saw? Seems like every other radial arm saw, has a motor and switch, and that's all for "electronics"
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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It has some sort of digital screen with a 10 key keyboard. I guess it is for different pre-set settings.
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 08:17 PM
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You raise or lower the head electronically, I am not sure but I think that model qualifies for the recall kit that will give you a redesigned guard and new table top.

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post #6 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not getting the electronic model. It sold last night. I went to an auction tonight and bought just a regular one that is really clean. Got home and it started raining so I covered it up and didn't have time to really check it out. That's tomorrow. $75, so I didn't think I could go wrong for that.
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangorockfish View Post
I'm not getting the electronic model. It sold last night. I went to an auction tonight and bought just a regular one that is really clean. Got home and it started raining so I covered it up and didn't have time to really check it out. That's tomorrow. $75, so I didn't think I could go wrong for that.
Congrats on getting a ras. I've owned 4-5 models of CM ras's. The older ones were decent. Not as good as a few other brands, but decent. Every now and then check the cut. The ras has a lot of adjustments to make initially. Be sure to get them right, and you will be rewarded.
It's not just getting the blade 90 deg. to the fence!

Be sure not to knock into the arm. I don't remembering doing that to one of my CM ras's, when I had it, but all of a sudden it had slop in the arm lock. There is a round forked piece, deep in the arm, that can get spread apart, and prevent locking solid. It's easy to fix. Pound it back together. It's a bitch to get the part out. And worse to get it back in!

Tuned up right and you will like using it. Be sure to use a negative tooth blade to prevent self feeding/stalling, putting a lot of stress on the arm.

Controlling the feed (holding back, as well as pulling) is important. Some industrial saws have a return spring. You can hook a bungi cord on the the motor as a return. It helps a lot in controlling the feed. A pulley with a weight would also work.
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post #8 of 16 Old 03-17-2017, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have just gotten into wood working/carpentry and am trying to get a couple of wood working shops set up. I have a vacation home in addition to our regular home that I want to have tools at also so I can work at both places. I'm trying to keep the cost way down so if I need to splurge sometime I won't feel guilty.
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Went out this morning and unloaded the RAS by myself. It took three of us last night to load it. Talk about heavy. Got it unloaded and checked it all out. Everything worked except the blade was tilted to a 45degree angle. Had a heckuva time getting it to 0degree. Finally realized I wasn't pushing the unlock lever far enough to unlock it. After that, it was time to fire that mutha up. Plugged it in, hit the on/off switch and it came to life. So sweet. Ran like a champ. It is in really nice condition. I'm not sure it has ever had too much use, as it is not all scarred up and the table isn't either. Really proud of my $75 dollar 10" RAS. Once I get a nice bed made for it, I will REALLY be proud of it. Rant over.
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post #10 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 07:04 PM
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don't add any "devices" ...

You always want to be in control of the saw carriage. Having it spring loaded will mean it will return on it's own, not a safe practice. It may climb over a scrap, your workpiece or your hand.
The slight additional return force can be easily overcome with a stiff arm approach. Make certain the V groove bearings that slide on the rails are snugged up and won't allow the carriage to jump up. There are cams on the bolts to allow them to be adjusted. I've never had one ride up over a workpiece, and have kept mine properly adjusted. When not using a feature, keep that in the locked position.

I was going to advise against getting the electronic version, but I hope it all works well. I just don't trust all that electronic stuff to keep working, but I could be wrong. I love my old 12" Craftsman and keep it locked at 90 degrees all the time.... no miters or bevels allowed. What a joy it is to use for crosscutting any size pieces from planks to 1" strips.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #11 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 07:06 PM
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What is electronic about it?
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 07:37 PM
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Be safe! Always stiff arm the saw. Follow the advice of a blade with negative hook to reduce self feeding. Though they claim you can rip on a RAS, don't. The rotation of the blade is such that it wants to lift the work, that can lead to an instant grab and crash into the guard, probably breaking it, duck! Same is true of the "molder heads" they sell, don't put one on a RAS. Same with trying to dado a long board. If you try any of those things use really heavy hold downs. The ones that come with a Craftsman are too weak to be of any value.
Since using a dado head will normally be used as a cross cut, it will really try to self feed, take small cuts.
BTW OSHA requires some sort of return mechanism on RAS's. We have a weight on a pulley on a very old 16" saw, passed OSHA.
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Woodnthings, I decided against the electronic one. It seemed about half of the electronic ones on Craigslist, the electronics didn't work.so I opted for just a regular Craftsman RAS. Hell, I can always send part of it back to Sears for $100 and make $25. LOL. Steve, I have no idea what is electronic about it. It just seems that about 50% of the electronics don't work. I haven't used it yet, but I think I'm gonna be satisfied with it, especially for $75.
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 08:46 PM
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Osha?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Schweitzer View Post
Be safe! Always stiff arm the saw. Follow the advice of a blade with negative hook to reduce self feeding. Though they claim you can rip on a RAS, don't. The rotation of the blade is such that it wants to lift the work, that can lead to an instant grab and crash into the guard, probably breaking it, duck! Same is true of the "molder heads" they sell, don't put one on a RAS. Same with trying to dado a long board. If you try any of those things use really heavy hold downs. The ones that come with a Craftsman are too weak to be of any value.
Since using a dado head will normally be used as a cross cut, it will really try to self feed, take small cuts.
BTW OSHA requires some sort of return mechanism on RAS's. We have a weight on a pulley on a very old 16" saw, passed OSHA.
I don't put much weight on the opinion of OSHA
A 16" saw used in an Industrial setting would have completely different "rules" than in a small shop, with one man. I still wouldn't want my saw "returning home" without my permission. There are times I want to set up a cut and I don't want to fight the return spring/weight. It just doesn't seem like s good idea to me, YMMV.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I don't put much weight on the opinion of OSHA
A 16" saw used in an Industrial setting would have completely different "rules" than in a small shop, with one man. I still wouldn't want my saw "returning home" without my permission. There are times I want to set up a cut and I don't want to fight the return spring/weight. It just doesn't seem like s good idea to me, YMMV.
Totally agree, seems to me if you learn to use a machine the way it was designed to be used a lot of these after thoughts are not necessary and often cause more accidents than they prevent.

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post #16 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 11:06 PM
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It is mentioned above, but you can get a complete new table top and blade guard free. Its still under warrenty. Mine was 30 years old and I got mine. Good deal.
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