What Hand plane to get? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk

firefighteremt153 · 07-31-2009, 07:28 AM

thanks for the link olfrt, i actually got to use the plane yesterday for the first time and im still smiling. It was the first time ive ever used a plane with the exception of a small block plane and wasn't really positive if I had it set up correctly, but it was shaving some black cherry paper thin and never chattered or had any problems that I could tell. I just need to do more research on how exactly to use planes for straightening and flattening.

frostr2001 · 07-31-2009, 04:02 PM

Harber freight has a really nice wood handled smooth plane for $9.00.. I picked one up yesterday as starter plane. I had no plane prior.

knotscott · 07-31-2009, 06:21 PM

Frostr - My first planes were a set from the Homier (HMC) "traveling circus" for $9.99 that's very similar to the one pictured below. They were crap and an absolute waste of $10.79 after tax.

For years I avoided using hand planes because I thought what I had was all they had to offer.

I can't say from personal experience, but I suspect that the HF #4 may have a similar pedigree. Here's an offer that should land you a better plane if you're interested. I'll give you the Craftsman #4 shown below if you're willing cover the shipping...it can't be more than the HF plane will bring when you return it.

It's cleaned up, reasonably sharp, setup for a large shaving at the moment, and is capable of good work. It's not one of their heralded older ones, but it is made in the USA and is well made. Send me a PM if you're interested.

frostr2001 · 07-31-2009, 07:21 PM

THANKS Mr knotscott! I am curious in what it is that makes the difference in planes. . As a novice I can only guess the hardness or makeup of the blade, which I figured I could replace with a good one. And maybe the flatness of the bottom or maybe the balance and confort feel? Thanks for the offer , I will decide upon your reply. What difference do you suppose I will notice when I try to run the plane over say a piece of Red oak?
Thanks again

knotscott · 07-31-2009, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostr2001

THANKS Mr knotscott! I am curious in what it is that makes the difference in planes. . As a novice I can only guess the hardness or makeup of the blade, which I figured I could replace with a good one. And maybe the flatness of the bottom or maybe the balance and confort feel? Thanks for the offer , I will decide upon your reply. What difference do you suppose I will notice when I try to run the plane over say a piece of Red oak?
Thanks again

Any poorly made tool will struggle to do the intended task, which makes it frustrating to use. A poorly made plane will be difficult to tune precisely and even more difficult keep tuned, which means it'll be prone to gouging, tearing, chattering, and being thrown against a wall.

In a nutshell, subtle design differences, stiffness, precision and metallurgy are better on a better plane...the same principles that make any tool or cutter better than another. The quality of the steel on the blade is part of it, but also the overall quality, thickness, and precision of the casting, the quality and fit of the cap iron, the seating and consistency of the frog, the lever cap, the quality of all the other parts, adjustment screws, finished craftsmanship, etc., that all add up to a plane that can be finely tuned, hold settings, and keep a sharp edge for a reasonable amount of time. Most importantly, a better plane should be a pleasure to use because it does what it should without creating unnecessary obstacles, whether you set it up for fine shavings, or roughing work. The subtle difference will be best noted once you've looked closely at a cheap plane and a good plane.

Since I've never examined the HF plane, I could have it all wrong, but precision and fine quality have never been their niche.

Webster · 07-31-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knotscott

In a nutshell, subtle design differences, stiffness, precision and metallurgy are better on a better plane...the same principles that make any tool or cutter better than another. The quality of the steel on the blade is part of it, but also the overall quality, thickness, and precision of the casting, the quality and fit of the cap iron, the seating and consistency of the frog, the lever cap, the quality of all the other parts, adjustment screws, finished craftsmanship, etc., that all add up to a plane that can be finely tuned, hold settings, and keep a sharp edge for a reasonable amount of time. Most importantly, a better plane should be a pleasure to use because it does what it should without creating unnecessary obstacles, whether you set it up for fine shavings, or roughing work. The subtle difference will be best noted once you've looked closely at a cheap plane and a good plane.

Extremely well put, my friend.

firefighteremt153 · 08-02-2009, 07:21 AM

frost, I actually bought that plane from HF a few years back. It was an impulse purchase. Worst $9 I ever spent on a tool/paper weight. I am alot more educated in hand planes than I was then, I think $9 worth of 40 grit sandpaper would be a better purchase, but that's just my opinion of the plane I purchased from them. I hope you get better results than I did.

knotscott · 08-02-2009, 08:24 AM

Jeremy - Bob's agreed to accept my offer for the Craftsman plane. It's no Lie Nielsen but it should be a fair bit better than the HF. Thanks for letting us "borrow" your post!

firefighteremt153 · 08-03-2009, 07:21 AM

knotscott, you are a generous man for giving away one of your planes. bye the way, I have been using that #6 just about every day since I've had it finished and I'm just amazed at how addicting hand planes are. I can't wait to find my next treasure and get it restored and in service.