NMUWoodworker

Hi all, I was wondering everyones opinion on what types of planers are better for the shop, good condition antique planers or new cheap planers from Groz?
The reason I ask is that I am collecting antique hand planers that I buy at auctions to sell later to collectors for profit, I have 8 right now, 4 that I use in my projects and was contemplating either buying new blades for all of them (30-40 bucks per bench blade from woodcraft.com) or buying brand new Groz hand planes that are 50 for No.5 and 35-40 for No.3/4 with the blades included. It would be nice to have all new blades for all my current planes since I'm always adjusting them but I'm really short on money being in college and all and it would be sweet if I got all new planers for more precise planing with less sanding. So what does everyone think? What does everyone use often?

Kingfisher

Most of the hand planes I have and use are old. For the money buying and tuning an old plane is cheaper than getting a new one of the same quality for most standard sizes 3-7, special plane like a rabbit or something you may buy new because those are hard to come across. I get most of mine a yard sales are country flee markets for about $25-30 for good shape with all parts including a blade. The hour or two to tune an old plane is only about 30 minutes more than when I tune a new one, but I don't buy $200-300 planes so maby they are better right out of the box. I have some nice after market blades from Woodcraft in the two planes I use the most. The thicker blade really is nice. Also I keep some of mine with the older style arced plade that leave cups when planing I use to do historic restoration and used them there but find that when you get the hang of the blades and adjusting them they are very handy. On the edge of a 3/4 board its hard to tell either way and if you slipe the blade to one side you can bevel cut the edge just a hair for a joint that is invisable.

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Never measure what you can scribe

NMUWoodworker

Maybe I should just rely on the old ones, only problem I come across is sharpening the blade with its dull, its kinda hard on a grinder with 3/4 in. width getting a perfectly flat cut. But it all comes with experience I guess lol

Kingfisher

You need a set of wet stones and/or sand paper for sharpening never a grinder you can burn the blade to quick. Use 100 grit black floor paper for really bad blades other wise a 600 grit stone is the coursest I use then 1200 then 4000 or 6000 for the finish polish. These stone grits are diffenet from sand grits. Buy a nice guide that holds the blade. This will have you razor sharp in no time. I keep a slightly rounded nose on most of my plane and find it cuts better. The trick is this is all free hand sharpening and takes alot of practice.

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Never measure what you can scribe

NMUWoodworker

Thanks for the tip! I will definently try that.

Steve Clardy

I buy ols stanley bailey's and some bedrocks.
I fix them up. A hundred or so I guess.

Have 3 LN 4.5 Bronzes. 1 is a user.
I prefer the old stanley's.

My user set is a set of type 13's, #2 through #8

ka7cse

Nothing feels like an experianced plane......