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		<title>Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum - Wood Finishing</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com</link>
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		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:03:59 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum - Wood Finishing</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Finishing Brazilian cherry countertop</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/finishing-brazilian-cherry-countertop-13359/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:18:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, 
I'm making a countertop out of Brazilian cherry and need help deciding what finish to use.  I'm down to two options, I think.  I really don't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
I'm making a countertop out of Brazilian cherry and need help deciding what finish to use.  I'm down to two options, I think.  I really don't want a chippable/scratchable surface coating finish like polyurethane, so I was going to mix poly and thinner so the poly penetrates the wood.  I also thought about adding maybe 10% tung oil.  I'd really like for this grain to pop.<br />
 <br />
My second option was one of the Waterlox products but I really haven't read much about them.  <br />
 <br />
Any thoughts?<br />
Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>Darel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/finishing-brazilian-cherry-countertop-13359/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Can I add a hardening agent "catalyst" to poly which will be brushed on?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/can-i-add-hardening-agent-catalyst-poly-will-brushed-13356/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:39:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Greetings, I'm refinishing a bathroom vanity which is made of sturdy plywood but has a white, factory sprayed, painted surface. I'm going for the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Greetings, I'm refinishing a bathroom vanity which is made of sturdy plywood but has a white, factory sprayed, painted surface. I'm going for the much trendy java...espresso brown look which everyone seems to now want. (I call the wana-be-starbucks-look.) I've experimented on a section of the vanity and have landed a method which very much renders the look I am shooting for. Rather than applying a wood veneer, I'm troubleshooting this particular project by applying a smooth, chalky, semi absorbant, basecoat primer which I had tinted to a dark umber brown. Afterwhich, I've used a fine hair wide watercolor brush and applied a thin coat of hevily pigmented satin grade polyeurethane. The urethane absorbes well into the tinted primer coat and surprisingly has rendered a realistic and frosty like,dark espresso finish that mimics closely what you see on some of the imitation java finishes you sometimes see at Target or Walmart. Of course nothing beats real wood, but the finish is still more pleasing and realistic as opposed to just painting it with dark brown. I feel this method may can be further improved if I could add some type of hardening agent to the poly before applying it. However, it seems that most hardening agents are only applied to finishes which are sprayed on, but I am not sure. So my question, for anyone who might can offer some advice or tips is whether or not it's possible for me to add a hardening agent to a small portion of polyurethane which can be brushed on rather than sprayed? Or is this a spray on method only. Your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated on this subject. Kind regards-Charles</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>fredonian</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/can-i-add-hardening-agent-catalyst-poly-will-brushed-13356/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>weathered int. Honey Oak Kitch Cabs</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/weathered-int-honey-oak-kitch-cabs-13346/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:05:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello out there! 
My mom has some honey oak kitchen cabinets which are 20 years old. They are dehydrated and peeling in some areas and fine in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello out there!<br />
My mom has some honey oak kitchen cabinets which are 20 years old. They are dehydrated and peeling in some areas and fine in others. They live in the high desert in a dry arid climate. I want to strip, sand, stain and varnish complete sections such as the under counter area and doors so as to have a uniform color match, texture and gloss. My dad wants to spread stain and varnish in only the areas affected. I can't convince him on how many levels this is wrong. Any helping factual problems or technical jargon would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>Steve B.</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/weathered-int-honey-oak-kitch-cabs-13346/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>How do I clean up wood oil stain?</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/how-do-i-clean-up-wood-oil-stain-13343/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:11:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
  
I refinished my front door and after a few days I noticed that I got a bit of stain on the latex paint of my outside trim.  There is also...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
 <br />
I refinished my front door and after a few days I noticed that I got a bit of stain on the latex paint of my outside trim.  There is also stain (and what looks like dried up stripper residue) on the glass in the door.  <br />
 <br />
So how do I remove the oil stain from the latex paint as well as what do I use to get rid of the stain and residue of the stripper?<br />
 <br />
Do I need to completely paint over the latex paint or can I use mineral spirits or something?<br />
 <br />
Any tips would be helpful.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>newbiewoodworker</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/how-do-i-clean-up-wood-oil-stain-13343/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Needs finishing help, can't decide.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/needs-finishing-help-cant-decide-13262/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:00:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have just completed building a project for my master bath. Im am not even close to being a pro at woodworking. But i took my time and am very happy...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have just completed building a project for my master bath. Im am not even close to being a pro at woodworking. But i took my time and am very happy with the result so far. So now comes time to finish the project. I want to try and get as close as i can to the look of the vanity in the bathroom. I used birch ply and poplar to construct the new cabinet. I have tried to google different types of finishes, but everyone seems to have a different recipe and i dont understand half of what they are talking about. Laquer, poly, stain, gel, conditioner, mix this mix that, rub here rub there, use a rag, use foam, use a brush..... TOO MUCH INPUT... I need a simple step by step sugestion, with some product suggestions even. Here are some pictures of what i made and the vanity im trying to finish like.<br />
Thanks for the help<br />
Jim<br />
<img src="http://www.j-enslin.net/images/009.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://www.j-enslin.net/images/012.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://www.j-enslin.net/images/011.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>jenslin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/needs-finishing-help-cant-decide-13262/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>waxy finish for surf paddle?</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/waxy-finish-surf-paddle-13250/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:05:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi gents - I'm a noob and am wondering how i get a waterproof waxy finish on a stand up surf paddle I made? Any suggestions would be awsome. 
Thanx,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi gents - I'm a noob and am wondering how i get a waterproof waxy finish on a stand up surf paddle I made? Any suggestions would be awsome.<br />
Thanx,<br />
Ray B.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>RayB</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/waxy-finish-surf-paddle-13250/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Tung Oil and Whiting???</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/tung-oil-whiting-13238/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:17:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello all, 
I'm soon to be stripping and refinishing old oak floors in my house. I am set on doing them in a white wash and have done a fair bit of...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello all,<br />
I'm soon to be stripping and refinishing old oak floors in my house. I am set on doing them in a white wash and have done a fair bit of research on different techniques and applications. I would also like to be as environmentally sound as possible.<br />
 <br />
Initially, I settled on a recipe that I discovered in a book that combined boiled linseed oil, citrus thinner, whiting, and pigment which seemed to suit my needs. However, I have now read more on the arguments of the harmful effects of linseed oil and tung oil seems to be more favourable in an eco-conscious way. Furthermore, I am attracted to the water resistant properties of tung oil and even more importantly, its non-yellowing properties that linseed oil is known to have over time, as well as its matte finish. Since I am whitewashing, I am attempting to get as white a finish as possible, without yellowing. I would also like a fairly opaque finish but I still want the grain and natural properties of the wood to come through.<br />
 <br />
Which brings me to my question: After searching the internet and the pile of books I have found, I have not read any application that combines tung oil and whiting together in the same &quot;recipe&quot;. I was thinking that I could keep the recipe I had found initially with the citrus thinner,whiting and pigment, and just substitute boiled linseed oil with tung oil.....Is this possible???  I want to make the oil more opaque, in other words, but I don't know if the whiting will mix with the tung oil.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>Jacquie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/tung-oil-whiting-13238/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Lacquer Over Flat Oil Based Paint.</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/lacquer-over-flat-oil-based-paint-13234/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:27:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just completed a Lego table for my daughter.  I  sprayed flat oil based paint on it.  My original intention was to put the paint on and then wipe...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just completed a Lego table for my daughter.  I  sprayed flat oil based paint on it.  My original intention was to put the paint on and then wipe it off giving it a stained look then lacquer over that and I have done that with success in the past.  The paint wasn't wiping off well so I decided to just paint it.  I could not find satin in the store because they only carried flat, semi-gloss and gloss.  I bought the flat thinking I would just spray some medium rubbed lacquer over the paint.  I think this should be fine, but just wanted to run it by the experts just in case.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
David</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>djonesax</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/lacquer-over-flat-oil-based-paint-13234/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>hand rubbing technique</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/hand-rubbing-technique-13218/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 17:07:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to finish an oak desk top. I can manage the sanding OK, but I'm not sure how to do the final rub with Pumice and Rottenstone. I understand...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm trying to finish an oak desk top. I can manage the sanding OK, but I'm not sure how to do the final rub with Pumice and Rottenstone. I understand I am supposed to use water or parafin oil, but I'm not exactly sure how to do it. Do I sprinkle the water/oil on the surface, make a slurry with the abrasive, or dip a wet cloth in the powder. How much liquid is appropriate.<br />
 <br />
I'd really appreciate some exact instructions or tips on 'hand rubbing technique.'<br />
 <br />
If this has been discussed before please point me to a link.<br />
 <br />
Thanks,<br />
 <br />
Kevin H.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>kjhart0133</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/hand-rubbing-technique-13218/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>finishing rough sawn</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/finishing-rough-sawn-13204/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 01:45:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hey guys new to the site and looking for some help. i am tearing down a horse stable and wish to use the old, aged rough sawn pine and hemlock to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guys new to the site and looking for some help. i am tearing down a horse stable and wish to use the old, aged rough sawn pine and hemlock to make a buffet for my wife. i plan on using some 12 inch pine planking for the tops and maybe some tin inserts for the panels on the doors. the tops will be sanded, stained and sealed. my question is, should i apply any type of finish to the rough sawn sides and frames of the cabinet? i plan on leaving it natural in color and assembling it with black cut nails. my father suggested applying wax but i am not sure it will work on this piece. i want a true rustic, old look! also as far as dusting and cleaning i dont see any issues with using a bristle vacume. please give me some input....</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>mike421</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/finishing-rough-sawn-13204/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Weathering wood</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/weathering-wood-13152/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:29:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a small wall hanging I want to complete for a Christmas present.  It will be made from 'weathered wood'.  Problem is I have no weathered wood!...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a small wall hanging I want to complete for a Christmas present.  It will be made from 'weathered wood'.  Problem is I have no weathered wood!  I do have a nice piece of straight grained fir.  How can I 'weather' it?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>loracmij</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/weathering-wood-13152/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>What Happened???</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/what-happened-13148/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 12:11:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I bought a new small job finish gun to continue the finishing on our 36 Plymouth woody.  The fisrt couple of pieces turned out beautifully.  But...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I bought a new small job finish gun to continue the finishing on our 36 Plymouth woody.  The fisrt couple of pieces turned out beautifully.  But the next pieces had spotting, orange peel, and other nastiness(different poly batch).  So I sanded, cleaned them with alcohol and shot again, same thing.  What the heck did i do right the first time that I did wrong since???  Figured it out.  I was using paper cups from the bathroom for dipping, mixing.  They have a wax coating that was getting dissolved by the thinner(naptha).  darn, darn, darn....................darn!!!!!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>Just Bill</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/what-happened-13148/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Rattle can poly issue</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/rattle-can-poly-issue-13137/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:39:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I think I applied a coat of Minwax poly too soon. The label says "within 2 hours or after 72 hours of the first coat". Well, I forgot about that this...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I think I applied a coat of Minwax poly too soon. The label says &quot;within 2 hours or after 72 hours of the first coat&quot;. Well, I forgot about that this morning and sprayed a section on a chair I'm restoring about 12 hours after the last coat. Two spots look like gold flaky film. The finish is very, very thin. How can I correct that without damaging the stain? I was thinking 0000 wool, but I'm afraid the poly will gum up where it feathers out.<br />
 <br />
TIA.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>Jeekinz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/rattle-can-poly-issue-13137/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Buffer/Polisher</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/buffer-polisher-13128/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 02:31:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I need to buy a buffer/polisher to buff lacquer to a high gloss mirror finish. Can I buy anything halfway decent in the $200 range and what buffer...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need to buy a buffer/polisher to buff lacquer to a high gloss mirror finish. Can I buy anything halfway decent in the $200 range and what buffer size and RPM ranger should I be looking for.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>Tony B</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/buffer-polisher-13128/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What now??</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/what-now-13097/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 04:34:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We were given a very  nice old dresser that I think we ruined while refinishing.  I decided to finish the inside of the drawers after talking to a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We were given a very  nice old dresser that I think we ruined while refinishing.  I decided to finish the inside of the drawers after talking to a couple of people and used the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane.  It's only been 6 days but yes the drawers stink and I won't be able to put clothes in there.  What can I do to fix this smell problem.  Do I have to totally sand the inside of the drawers, is there something I can &quot;paint&quot; on over it.  Do I need to give it some more time?  I just want to know how to fix this now.  The outside turned out beautiful but it's the inside that has me sick because I refuse to just toss it, I want to fix it......right.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/">Wood Finishing</category>
			<dc:creator>ibs76</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/what-now-13097/</guid>
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