Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum - Tool Reviews http://www.woodworkingtalk.com Review tools from your shop here. en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:29:16 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum - Tool Reviews http://www.woodworkingtalk.com Compound Miter saw http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/compound-miter-saw-13332/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:52:02 GMT I currently use a 10 to 15 year old 12" DeWalt Compound Miter saw and the blade brake is no longer working and it is slow returning to the up position. That being said, I am looking for a new Compound Miter Saw and was wondering if anyone had one that preformed exceptionally well?
Mike ]]> Tool Reviews J. M. Bird http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/compound-miter-saw-13332/ Freud Diablo reciprocating saw blades and the Feugo Ridgid Recip Saw http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/freud-diablo-reciprocating-saw-blades-feugo-ridgid-recip-saw-13212/ Sun, 15 Nov 2009 13:04:55 GMT Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. 100 times better than any other blade I have used. They are much more stout than the other brands. They dont bend very... Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. 100 times better than any other blade I have used. They are much more stout than the other brands. They dont bend very easy. They claim to last 10 times long than the other blades due to the carbide tips they put on them.

I bought the ridgid one handed recip saw http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R3030-On...w/EN/index.htm
This tool is very handy if you are in a compact space needing to cut something out. It weighs 4 lbs. It has an LED on it, so if your underneath the sink inside the cabinets, it will brighten up your work area. It has the quick release for easy blade change. It is not as powerful as your full-size recip but it is not suppose to be as strong as them. The motor is 4 amps. It has an extremely long cord. It has a power indicator on the plug to show whether it is powered up or not. Seems to me it would be a must have tool for a plumber. ]]> Tool Reviews Allthumbs27 http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/freud-diablo-reciprocating-saw-blades-feugo-ridgid-recip-saw-13212/ <![CDATA[Thoughts on Grizzly GO505 12 1/2" Planer???]]> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/thoughts-grizzly-go505-12-1-2-planer-13176/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:35:24 GMT What do yal think about this planer as opposed to the other lunchbox type planers? Im a beginning wood worker and would like something dependable... What do yal think about this planer as opposed to the other lunchbox type planers?

Im a beginning wood worker and would like something dependable and worth the money.
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]]> Tool Reviews bnew17 http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/thoughts-grizzly-go505-12-1-2-planer-13176/ Drill Press Quill Slop http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/drill-press-quill-slop-13168/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:29:28 GMT I'm new to this forum but am looking for some advise. I bought a used Central Machinery benchtop drill press for a Cub Scout project where I needed a press and didn't want to spend a lot. Found a 16 speed 3 pulley press with a 3/4 hp motor and built stout. Thought it would work fine, which it did, but I started noticing that the holes were not always consistent. I was playing around with it and lowered it down to different depths and pushed and pulled it and there is slop. Initially I thought it might be the spindle bearings since this was manufactured in 1988 per the motor tag. So I took it apart and dropped the quill out and all the bearings are tight as can be. But as I slid the quill in and out of the housing I could feel there is a bit of slop, don't know how much yet as I need to get a caliper to check the inside and outside diameters of the hole and quill.

What I am wondering is whether there is some fix for this, or whether I live with it, or do I chuck it and get something else. The head case is not split so there is no bolt to tighten it up. Has anyone tried some type of shim? I'm guessing there is a .003-.005" slop that I might be able to put a shim of some sort in to fix.

I would hate to throw it out as everything else about this drill is built well, but if it can't drill consistent holes, what is the use of having a drill press? ]]> Tool Reviews Superslug http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/drill-press-quill-slop-13168/ <![CDATA[Jet 10" Jointer / Planer Combo w/ Stand JJP-10BTOS]]> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/jet-10-jointer-planer-combo-w-stand-jjp-10btos-13145/ Thu, 12 Nov 2009 02:34:14 GMT Does anyone have any input on this item? I have a somewhat small shop. I never owned a Jointer or Planer and am starting to see some need for them.... Does anyone have any input on this item? I have a somewhat small shop. I never owned a Jointer or Planer and am starting to see some need for them. Not enough to require large units of either a jointer or planer nor do I have the floor space for them. I've read a few reviews and I haven't really learned a whole lot. I like the size/space consideration and I would like some power but I don't require too much. I'm not foreseeing a HUGE amount of use but I also don't want to be burned again by buying a product just because the price is right and it turns out to be JUNK. Oh, and I also like the 10” jointer surface and will probably have more of a need for that than a larger planer surface. And the price isn’t bad either. Woodcraft will supposedly be running a sale in the next few weeks 15% off the $399 price.

Thanks!

Dustin ]]> Tool Reviews dgmunch http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/jet-10-jointer-planer-combo-w-stand-jjp-10btos-13145/ Akeda BC24 Dovetail Jig http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/akeda-bc24-dovetail-jig-13144/ Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:37:53 GMT My Akeda BC24 arrived last week. I was just waiting for the accessory C-kit, with all the bits and guide pins, to get started. That finally came... My Akeda BC24 arrived last week. I was just waiting for the accessory C-kit, with all the bits and guide pins, to get started. That finally came yesterday.

I had the new 24 inch PC Omnijig, but was frustrated with the time to set-up and having to make multiple test cuts to get it dialed in. I wound up selling it and got the Akeda.

Out of the box, and there is nothing to assemble. The jig itself is self-contained; no finger template bars, stops, router rest to add to the jig. It's all in one slick, well-designed system. I snapped in the dust collection port and plenum in about a minute. The longest part of getting it ready was making the plywood sub-base to mount the jig to my workbench. Once that was done, I was ready to cut some DTs.

Attachment 11480 Attachment 11483

I purchased the complete 64 piece accessory kit with the jig. It has all the guide fingers, guide bushings, DT and straight bits, spacers, collet reducer, dust collection, etc. for all the DTs and box joints the jig can make. Other than new router bits when these wear out, I won't need to buy any other add-ons.

The accessories are a lot of little pieces that screamed for a storage case. I could see some pieces getting lost unless I organized them right out of the packaging. So my first DTs were for building the storage case for all the parts. I laid them out and sketched up a measured drawing. All of the components are separated in compartments, making it easy to grab the right guide fingers, bit and bushing for the project at hand. I used some scrap maple and mahogany to make the case.

Attachment 11485 Attachment 11486

Oh, and the accessory C-kit comes with an 'Akeda' lapel pin, which made a great storage case logo!


Attachment 11487

[image]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss335/mwheffernan/AkedaCaseLogo_resize.jpg[/image]

I read the manual before making any cuts. But the jig is incredibly intuitive that I could have snapped the fingers into place and ploughed out the DTs without it. I didn't make any test cuts before making the case, just went right at it. The DTs were little shallow and a slightly loose, due to operator error. I don't think I set the bit depth correctly. I just adjusted the depth, re-routed the pins and planed the tail boards down about 1/64 inch. Since it was just a storage case, I wasn't worried about it.

There was some tearout in the mahogany pin sides, even though I was careful to do a climb cut (right to left), slowly plough out the middle material and finish along the pin guides. This Mahogany is a bit stringy (African), so I'll attribute the tearout to the wood and not the straight bit. There was no tearout on the maple tail boards.

From start to finish, including set-up of the jig was about 20 minutes. I was going slow to make sure that everything was right. I bet that once I get used to it, I could knock out a drawer box in 5 minutes, set-up to finish. IMO, it's that easy.

Dust collection is incredible on this jig. There was virtually no chips or dust on the floor or bench after making the cuts. I hooked it up to my shopvac and the chips disappeared. I always found the PC Omnijig dust chute to be large, clunky and in the way. You also had to remove it when changing fingers for pins/tails.

I have a Pat Warner clear precision plate on my Bosch 1617EVS router and I could see what I was doing while making the cuts. I never was able to clearly see the cuts on the Omnijig; too much metal obscured the view.

The fact that the router rest is built in to the jig and the router never touches the pin or tail guides, makes the cutting operation smooth and friction free. I waxed the router base and jig guide rails and the router slides smooth as silk. The Omnijig router rest was the fingers and a slide-on bar that never felt smooth to me.

Laying out the DT joint for the storage case couldn't be easier. I snapped the first tail guide in the jig, clamped the tail board in place, mirrored the tail guide on the right of the workpiece and filled in the guides in between. Depending on the width of your piece, you can easily play around with tail/pin positioning for variable spaced DTs. The fact that the guides snap in in 1/8 inch increments doesn't bother me. I feel that I'll get as much variation as I need with the jig. If your board widths are in 1/8 inch increments, everything will fall out just fine. I saw on the Akeda website that they are coming out with an 'Index Strip Adjuster' that basically offsets the index strip on the jig for widths other than 1/8 inch increments. This will solve the issue that some have with the jig.

http://akeda.com/jig.new-products.html

When I'm finished using the jig, it's easy to store (especially with my new case). I don't have a large shop, so it doesn't have a dedicated station.

I have a couple of minor things that I think that Akeda should change.

1. The jig itself doesn't come with any DT or straight bits. Since the bits are specific to the jig (you can't just use any DT bits), it would be nice to get at least one DT and straight bit with the jig, maybe for 3/4 inch or 5/8inch stock.
2. Everyone recommends (including Akeda) purchasing the dust collection port/plenum for the jig. The jig was designed with integrated dust collection, so why is it an add-on? I don't think I would use this jig without the dust port. I could see the enclosed chamber getting clogged very quickly.
3. Storage case? Even though it was fun and a great way to test out the jig, by making my own case, I think it would be wise for Akeda to offer a dedicated case for all the parts. The pin/tail guides could easily get lost, as well as all the other things. If you are thinking of getting this jig with the accessory kit(s), either make a case right away, or have some stackable lidded plastic containers ready and labeled to store everything. You'll go crazy if you just put all the pins/tails in a bin together.



I've got a Arts & Crafts style dresser to make next. Can't wait to get to the drawers and use the jig again. I may just get out some scraps and play with it just for kicks.
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]]> Tool Reviews Michael H. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/akeda-bc24-dovetail-jig-13144/ Dual Blade Saw http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/dual-blade-saw-13129/ Wed, 11 Nov 2009 03:34:24 GMT Maybe you can help me. I went to a show a few weeks ago and saw a demonstration of a saw that had two blades, each spinning in opposite directions.... Maybe you can help me. I went to a show a few weeks ago and saw a demonstration of a saw that had two blades, each spinning in opposite directions. The saw cut very clean edges because of the opposite spinning motion. They even cut and egg with it and the shell didn't crack. I can't remember what it was called now and my local hardware store obviously doesn't carry it. Do any of you know what I am talking about? ]]> Tool Reviews PatJewett http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/dual-blade-saw-13129/ rockler tenoning jig http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/rockler-tenoning-jig-13034/ Thu, 05 Nov 2009 03:02:28 GMT just wondering if anyone has one of these jigs. Just bought one and im finding getting the jig parallel to the saw blade seems almost impossible! The... just wondering if anyone has one of these jigs. Just bought one and im finding getting the jig parallel to the saw blade seems almost impossible! The directions are garbage. But i have read very good reviews on this jig. I must be missing something. HELP!!!! ]]> Tool Reviews jimmykx250 http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/rockler-tenoning-jig-13034/ Delta 36-979 contractor saw-KAPUT? http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/delta-36-979-contractor-saw-kaput-13011/ Tue, 03 Nov 2009 14:33:55 GMT I am a hobby woodworker. I purchased this saw new 1/2007. I have made a half dozen projects with it since 1/2007. Last used last week to rip some... I am a hobby woodworker. I purchased this saw new 1/2007. I have made a half dozen projects with it since 1/2007. Last used last week to rip some 3/4" walnut fro a plan stand. The saw is “dead”. Power to it is wired through a light switch for extra safety and power is ok. The saw is a simple electric system: power cord, switch, motor. The motor reset button was not tripped. The switch did snap on and off but again, the motor is “dead”. So, I opened up the switch (the power is off of course) and now I notice the switch seams to be locked; I can't move it from it's current position which is kinda in between on and off. I ran out of time to trouble shoot further. Next I’ll bypass the switch, turn to power on, and see if the moror works or not.
In the meantime, anyone had a similar issue with this model saw? It's only 2 1/2 year old-shoud I be surprised??? :thumbdown:
Nubie :furious: ]]> Tool Reviews nubie http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/delta-36-979-contractor-saw-kaput-13011/ Hitachi CW40 Scroll Saw http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/hitachi-cw40-scroll-saw-13002/ Mon, 02 Nov 2009 22:25:31 GMT I'm looking at buying a new scroll saw that doesn't cost $450 (aka, a DeWalt), and was wondering if anyone here has heard anything about the Hitachi CW40 Scroll Saw?

Thanks in advance for any input! ]]> Tool Reviews CivilEngineer13 http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/hitachi-cw40-scroll-saw-13002/ Good Squares? http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/good-squares-12939/ Thu, 29 Oct 2009 21:52:49 GMT I bought a $25 "try square". It's "trying" to be square, but it's way off. :laughing: (wood handled Stanely)

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Woodpeckers tools? It looks quality, but I don't want to keep wasting money.
My framing square and $3 plastic speed squares are very accurate. But I'm looking for something a little easier for tablesaw and jointer setup.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...keyword=square

and

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0753000P?mv=rr ]]> Tool Reviews clarionflyer http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/good-squares-12939/