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		<title>Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum - General Woodworking Discussion</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com</link>
		<description>Open discussion on the topics of related to woodworking.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:50:26 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum - General Woodworking Discussion</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com</link>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Scroll Saw ain't cuttn' straight.....]]></title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/scroll-saw-aint-cuttn-straight-13364/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:28:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been trying to cut 3/4" oak patterns with my scroll saw but seem to have an issue overcoming an uneven cut.  I am cutting the pattern dead on;...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've been trying to cut 3/4&quot; oak patterns with my scroll saw but seem to have an issue overcoming an uneven cut.  I am cutting the pattern dead on; however, the cut in not straight compared to the back part of the cut.  <br />
 <br />
My blade is aligned 90 degrees with the table top so I ruled that out.  I am using new blades so that's out.  Am I trying to cut too fast?  The wrong blade speed.  Any thoughts or recommendations are greatly appreciated.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Al B Cuttn Wud</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/scroll-saw-aint-cuttn-straight-13364/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>tool sharpening</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/tool-sharpening-13361/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:56:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[With the price of getting tools sharpened I'm thinking of buying a tool sharpening system.  Has anyone used the : central machinery 8" Wet/6" Dry...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>With the price of getting tools sharpened I'm thinking of buying a tool sharpening system.  Has anyone used the : central machinery 8&quot; Wet/6&quot; Dry Grinder.  It is less than 79.00 and is supposed to go down to 59.99 after Thanksgiving.  I don't a have lot of money to spend on the system other wise I would go with the work sharp or Tomek system.  I would mainly use this for lathe tool and woodcarving knives.<br />
 <br />
thanks<br />
Arthur</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>oregoncarver</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/tool-sharpening-13361/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Who can answer this question ?</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/who-can-answer-question-13360/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:28:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a piece of log , slice about 3" thick and it's about 4'feet around . In other words a large cookie with the bark still attached . as usual it...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a piece of log , slice about 3&quot; thick and it's about 4'feet around . In other words a large cookie with the bark still attached . as usual it has cracked while drying.  ( pie shaped crack ) and it's  Canadian Maple.<br />
<br />
My question is , how do I stop the crack from spreading any more than it is. It's a pie shaped crack, from the  edge to about 4&quot; from center <br />
I'm going to use it as an end table my basement &quot;TV' rec room. <br />
Can I attach something underneath , not to close the crack , ( it would probably break ) but just to stop it going any further.<br />
I look forward to everyones input <br />
<br />
I could upload a picture if needed</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>APJ</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/who-can-answer-question-13360/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Planer or Jointer?</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/planer-jointer-13355/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:31:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Haven't used either, but I have a project coming up that I need one or the other. I plan on buying 1" stock boards (cedar), ripping them in half with...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Haven't used either, but I have a project coming up that I need one or the other. I plan on buying 1&quot; stock boards (cedar), ripping them in half with the table saw, and then smoothing out the one side that the table saw cut. <br />
<br />
Do I want a jointer or planer? In the long run, what will benefit me more? <br />
<br />
And no, I can't buy both.... And I know someone will still recommend it...<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>CivilEngineer13</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/planer-jointer-13355/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>scroll saw  question</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/scroll-saw-question-13353/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:44:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i would like to add a scroll saw to my shop. 
  
i dont plan on doing a lot of scroll saw work at least not right away but would like to try it a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i would like to add a scroll saw to my shop.<br />
 <br />
i dont plan on doing a lot of scroll saw work at least not right away but would like to try it a little before i invest major dollars in one.<br />
 <br />
one of the big box stores has a 16&quot; dremel on sale that had variable speed and thought that might be a start.<br />
 <br />
i guess im looking to see if anyone owns one of these and maybe some pro's and con<br />
 <br />
any help and advice appreciated<br />
 <br />
thanks <br />
 <br />
kendall</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>supershingler</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/scroll-saw-question-13353/</guid>
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			<title>Wood odors</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/wood-odors-13351/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:08:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was recently cutting some purpleheart, and noticed the odor that it let off was pretty strong.  I went inside for lunch and went back out to a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was recently cutting some purpleheart, and noticed the odor that it let off was pretty strong.  I went inside for lunch and went back out to a smell of week old throw-up.  When I last used oak, I noticed a smell also.  Anyone else had the pleasure of throw-up wood?<br />
Nick</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>nblumert</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/wood-odors-13351/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Glue to use fixing sacrificial surface on workbench</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/glue-use-fixing-sacrificial-surface-workbench-13350/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:57:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi! 
  
Newby here :). I hope I've got the right forum. 
  
As a long-time DIYer, now retired, I'm improving my workbench : after many years limping...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi!<br />
 <br />
Newby here :). I hope I've got the right forum.<br />
 <br />
As a long-time DIYer, now retired, I'm improving my workbench : after many years limping by using a worktop made from a re-cycled stout ledge-and-brace door, I'm now replacing the worktop with a solid-core firedoor, with 12mm MDF sheet bonded on top.<br />
 <br />
Since I'm a pretty messy worker, I intend to add to the top a 3mm surface sheet of MDF, which can be removed and replaced when it gets too stained/worn/uneven/damaged. The question is : how to fix it so that it is removable and replaceable?<br />
 <br />
I'm thinking I can use a few, small, strategically-placed brass screws to make sure there is no lateral movement - countersunk enough to ensure no damaging encounters with tools. But I think it should also be lightly glued down - emphasize **lightly** :) - enough to resist lifting around edges &amp; dog-holes etc.<br />
 <br />
My question is : what type of glue is most appropriate for this purpose? The most important factor is reversability - it must be possible to lift this thin surface sheet in a few years time, and replace it when it is too knackered. Strong adhesion is not an important factor.<br />
 <br />
My experience to date with glues is fairly limited : simple PVA glues &amp; an occassional use of Polyurethane. Now and then I've used modern replacements (e.g. Titebond hide glue) for traditional hide/scotch glues in furniture restoration.<br />
 <br />
From researching on Google, there seem to be three possibilities - but in all three cases I'm unsure how one would eventually 'unfix' a large sheet of 3mm MDF so it can be replace. There seems to be little clear information about 'reversible' glues on the internet :<br />
 <br />
1. Using vegetable paste glue (wheat or rice glue) - basically flour paste/wallpaper paste - which will dissolve in water. But how to make the water penetrate under a large sheet if MDF?<br />
2. Real, old-fashioned animal (hide) glue - the animal-protein sort you heat up in a pot. Some literature seems to suggest it an be de-bonded with heat (on a 3mm surface, perhaps ironing? or blowing with a heat gun?). Other literature suggest water/steam is needed (how to get that under a large sheet?)<br />
3. Hot-melt glue (white glue-sticks, dispensed from a glue gun). My impression is that heat (iron/heat gun through 3mm MDF) will re-melt the glue and release the bond. But I presume it isn't water-soluble like 1 &amp; 2, so will it clean up OK? Can I smoothly fix a replacement surface?<br />
 <br />
Hope I've been clear, and sorry for being so long-winded. Thanks for any help you can give me.<br />
 <br />
Regards<br />
 <br />
baldpate</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>baldpate</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/glue-use-fixing-sacrificial-surface-workbench-13350/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Knob Placement on Cabinet doors.</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/knob-placement-cabinet-doors-13349/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:15:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Cabinetman & I were having a discussion about the knob placement on my recent post of the white vanity.  He wan't fond of where I put the knobs on...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Cabinetman &amp; I were having a discussion about the knob placement on my recent post of the white vanity.  He wan't fond of where I put the knobs on the center cabinet and the tall cabinet.  I photo shopped the cabinets and put them where he like them.  <br />
<br />
Now as a general discussion, which do you prefer?<br />
<br />
Existing version<br />
<img src="http://fototime.com/8C9A3C7AA6697FB/orig.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Photo shopped version<br />
<img src="http://fototime.com/41728CB9501444E/orig.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
So, what do you guys prefer, and maybe state why if you feel in the mood to type.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Leo G</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/knob-placement-cabinet-doors-13349/</guid>
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			<title>Need new shop vac</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/need-new-shop-vac-13345/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:49:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Hi guys need to purchace a new shop vac . I like the Ridgid @ HD 16 gal. 6.5 hp 12amp stainless steel vac model #WD1958 does anyone use this one and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>Hi guys need to purchace a new shop vac . I like the Ridgid @ HD 16 gal. 6.5 hp 12amp stainless steel vac model #WD1958 does anyone use this one and if so how do you rate it THANKS IN ADVANCE DON</b></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>don murtha</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/need-new-shop-vac-13345/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Wet Wood</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/wet-wood-13328/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:04:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all, i have bought a piece of oak 1300mm x 150mm x 90mm for a mantel piece but it is really wet (squared the ends up on the saw and you could feel...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all, i have bought a piece of oak 1300mm x 150mm x 90mm for a mantel piece but it is really wet (squared the ends up on the saw and you could feel the damp all the way through) and i was wondering what i could do about it, <br />
 <br />
some people at work said that i should just leave it for a couple of weeks but i dont think it will make much difference, we have a big press for pressing venneer to boards which gets really hot (up to 100'c) could i leave it in there overnight with the temp turned down low for a while or would that split it?<br />
 <br />
please help!! thanks:thumbsup:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Jimbo.</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/wet-wood-13328/</guid>
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			<title>finish for a goblet?</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/finish-goblet-13327/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:49:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My wife wants a Pimp Cup... so I was thinking about making her a goblet out of some purple heart and zebra wood... that seems pretty pimp to me. 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My wife wants a Pimp Cup... so I was thinking about making her a goblet out of some purple heart and zebra wood... that seems pretty pimp to me.<br />
<br />
But I was looking around at a way to finish it.  I haven't found too much direction online on the best way to protect it.  I'm sure that she will drink just about anything out of it from water, pop, beer, wine... so I would like to seal it very good... <br />
<br />
anyone have experience with this?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Derek</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Dvoigt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/finish-goblet-13327/</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Best Air Filtration System for 12' X 20' Shop?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/best-air-filtration-system-12-x-20-shop-13264/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:18:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone. I'm finally reaching into the wallet for an air filtration system for my 12' X 20' one-car garage/shop. I'd like to spend under $400...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey everyone. I'm finally reaching into the wallet for an air filtration system for my 12' X 20' one-car garage/shop. I'd like to spend under $400 and get something that does the job (quiet would be a bonus) without too much maintenance. Is there a unit in this price range that fits my shop? Jet? Powermatic? Delta? Any recommendations are appreciated.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>windstorm</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/best-air-filtration-system-12-x-20-shop-13264/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Quality of work. How Long Did it Take</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/quality-work-how-long-did-take-13258/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:13:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Some of you have seen my posts where I'm looking a pic of some of your projects here and comment that this beautiful work isn't  talent  but it's a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font size="3">Some of you have seen my posts where I'm looking a pic of some of your projects here and comment that this beautiful work isn't  talent  but it's a God given gift A while back the topic here was out feed tables. One fellow posted a pic if his and and it looked like like  a custom cabinet raised panel doors. I look at some of my stands and they are total junk compared to to some of the projects here. I know the saying of &quot;if your going to do something do it right&quot;. You see the pics of  some of the shops here and MOST of the pics are from professional members here. They do this for a living and not as a hobby. I still would like to see the shop pics grouped into 2 categories, professional wood workers and hobbyist shops. I know some of you here have been doing this for years.  My question is how long did it take for your projects to start looking better. I'm putting together a wishing well from a  set of plans I found online. It looks like crap. Does your skill improve over time?<br />
I know some of my mistakes were due to me getting in a hurry and not being careful. Do things improve over time?<br />
Thanks in advance.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
</font></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>John in Tennessee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/quality-work-how-long-did-take-13258/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>It Would Be Nice</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/would-nice-13255/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:07:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>When composing a post, especially a question,  include *all* the details so those responding can intelligently try to answer the question.  
 
How do...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>When composing a post, especially a question,  include <b>all</b> the details so those responding can intelligently try to answer the question. <br />
<br />
How do you do that? Well, when your post is typed out, read it back to yourself and see if there are complete details that can be addressed. Check to see if there is anything someone could ask to clarify the information that you didn't include. <br />
<br />
The little button below composing the post - &quot;Preview Post&quot; allows the post to be set up for reading <b>before</b> clicking &quot;Submit New Thread&quot;. If you make changes to the post you can &quot;Preview&quot; as many times as you want. It's also a good time to look at your spelling (if you're in the mood).<br />
<br />
You don't want answers to your questions to be as vague as your question. Giving specific details limits someone having to figure out what you are actually referring to. Or, having to come up with several different answers because of a lack of information.<br />
<br />
Examples:<br />
<br />
Poly - Is it oil base or water based?<br />
Would giving dimensions help?<br />
Would describing use or purpose help?<br />
How was a finish applied? <br />
What tool/machine was used?<br />
Was the finish wiped on, or brushed?<br />
Was the finish sprayed on (can or compressor/gun)<br />
<br />
<br />
MODS: I posted this in this section as it's a place for many involved questions. If it should be moved...go ahead. I'll get over it.<br />
   <br />
<br />
<br />
<div align="center"><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/cabinetman_photos/masterlogo.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>  <div align="center"><img src="http://www.woodworking.com/dcforum/User_files/448d7c4c153075b2.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>cabinetman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/would-nice-13255/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>using different types of wood for table tops</title>
			<link>http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/using-different-types-wood-table-tops-13252/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:47:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>guys, looking for a website or anything that shocases or shows some different design templates for table tops.  I kind of know what I want, but want...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>guys, looking for a website or anything that shocases or shows some different design templates for table tops.  I kind of know what I want, but want to see it first. I would like to use two different types of wood for the top of contrasting color. Also, I thought of ripping each piece in half and gluing them together to make a (dont know what the exact term is) bookcase or something or other. Not set on this however. I'd like to weight out my options. Hoping you can help.  thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/">General Woodworking Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Scealf</dc:creator>
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