Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

Cherry dresser

Weird Woody — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:39:24 GMT

I built this for a bartender friend i have. Its figured cherry veneer with black limba rails and has 60 inlays of birds eye maple and quilted sapele.
My wife named it "Effervescence"

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Scroll Saw ain't cuttn' straight.....

Al B Cuttn Wud — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:28:40 GMT

I've been trying to cut 3/4" oak patterns with my scroll saw but seem to have an issue overcoming an uneven cut. I am cutting the pattern dead on; however, the cut in not straight compared to the back part of the cut.

My blade is aligned 90 degrees with the table top so I ruled that out. I am using new blades so that's out. Am I trying to cut too fast? The wrong blade speed. Any thoughts or recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Every kitchen needs one!

Jeff4woodturning — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:19:45 GMT

It don't slice, it don't dice, but it sure makes curly fries..

YouTube- Broadcast Yourself.

Anchorseal alternatives

TomC — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:07:31 GMT

A tree cutting company is going to cut a large pecan limb over hanging my Dad's roof on Monday. Iam going to save some of the larger pieces of this limb. It will be about 8" in diameter. I want to seal the ends of the limb. I don't have access to any anchorseal and have learned from reading posts on this board that latex will not work. My question is can I use polyuatheane or a can of spray paint to stop or help eleminate the end checking?
Tom

tool sharpening

oregoncarver — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:56:53 GMT

With the price of getting tools sharpened I'm thinking of buying a tool sharpening system. Has anyone used the : central machinery 8" Wet/6" Dry Grinder. It is less than 79.00 and is supposed to go down to 59.99 after Thanksgiving. I don't a have lot of money to spend on the system other wise I would go with the work sharp or Tomek system. I would mainly use this for lathe tool and woodcarving knives.

thanks
Arthur

Who can answer this question ?

APJ — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:28:30 GMT

I have a piece of log , slice about 3" thick and it's about 4'feet around . In other words a large cookie with the bark still attached . as usual it has cracked while drying. ( pie shaped crack ) and it's Canadian Maple.

My question is , how do I stop the crack from spreading any more than it is. It's a pie shaped crack, from the edge to about 4" from center
I'm going to use it as an end table my basement "TV' rec room.
Can I attach something underneath , not to close the crack , ( it would probably break ) but just to stop it going any further.
I look forward to everyones input

I could upload a picture if needed

Finishing Brazilian cherry countertop

Darel — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:18:11 GMT

Hello,
I'm making a countertop out of Brazilian cherry and need help deciding what finish to use. I'm down to two options, I think. I really don't want a chippable/scratchable surface coating finish like polyurethane, so I was going to mix poly and thinner so the poly penetrates the wood. I also thought about adding maybe 10% tung oil. I'd really like for this grain to pop.

My second option was one of the Waterlox products but I really haven't read much about them.

Any thoughts?
Thanks!

Can I add a hardening agent "catalyst" to poly which will be brushed on?

fredonian — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:39:10 GMT

Greetings, I'm refinishing a bathroom vanity which is made of sturdy plywood but has a white, factory sprayed, painted surface. I'm going for the much trendy java...espresso brown look which everyone seems to now want. (I call the wana-be-starbucks-look.) I've experimented on a section of the vanity and have landed a method which very much renders the look I am shooting for. Rather than applying a wood veneer, I'm troubleshooting this particular project by applying a smooth, chalky, semi absorbant, basecoat primer which I had tinted to a dark umber brown. Afterwhich, I've used a fine hair wide watercolor brush and applied a thin coat of hevily pigmented satin grade polyeurethane. The urethane absorbes well into the tinted primer coat and surprisingly has rendered a realistic and frosty like,dark espresso finish that mimics closely what you see on some of the imitation java finishes you sometimes see at Target or Walmart. Of course nothing beats real wood, but the finish is still more pleasing and realistic as opposed to just painting it with dark brown. I feel this method may can be further improved if I could add some type of hardening agent to the poly before applying it. However, it seems that most hardening agents are only applied to finishes which are sprayed on, but I am not sure. So my question, for anyone who might can offer some advice or tips is whether or not it's possible for me to add a hardening agent to a small portion of polyurethane which can be brushed on rather than sprayed? Or is this a spray on method only. Your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated on this subject. Kind regards-Charles

Planer or Jointer?

CivilEngineer13 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:31:02 GMT

Haven't used either, but I have a project coming up that I need one or the other. I plan on buying 1" stock boards (cedar), ripping them in half with the table saw, and then smoothing out the one side that the table saw cut.

Do I want a jointer or planer? In the long run, what will benefit me more?

And no, I can't buy both.... And I know someone will still recommend it...

Thanks!

Opinions: Rikon 14" Bandsaw

Ledhead — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:00:54 GMT

I'm just about to purchase the Rikon 14" Deluxe bandsaw, on sale now at woodcraft. I like its features as compared to others, especially 1 1/2 hp motor, 13" resaw capacity, larger table. It reviews well and I even read it picked up an editors choice award when compared to several others. Anyone own this tool and wish to provide any feedback before I make the purchase this weekend?
Thanks in advance.
:clap:

scroll saw question

supershingler — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:44:39 GMT

i would like to add a scroll saw to my shop.

i dont plan on doing a lot of scroll saw work at least not right away but would like to try it a little before i invest major dollars in one.

one of the big box stores has a 16" dremel on sale that had variable speed and thought that might be a start.

i guess im looking to see if anyone owns one of these and maybe some pro's and con

any help and advice appreciated

thanks

kendall

Carbide Roughing Tool

mjbalata — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:14:41 GMT

I just turned a 12" diameter segmented walnut bowl with my new toy. This thing works great.

It is from J&B Tools in Mississippi (Wise guy I am that I tried to spell it!)

This "Peeler" not only works, but is relatively inexpensive, versus the Ci1.

Their site:
http://www.jandbtools.com/

Great customer service. Take a look.
mjbalata

Wood odors

nblumert — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:08:03 GMT

I was recently cutting some purpleheart, and noticed the odor that it let off was pretty strong. I went inside for lunch and went back out to a smell of week old throw-up. When I last used oak, I noticed a smell also. Anyone else had the pleasure of throw-up wood?
Nick

Glue to use fixing sacrificial surface on workbench

baldpate — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:57:01 GMT

Hi!

Newby here :). I hope I've got the right forum.

As a long-time DIYer, now retired, I'm improving my workbench : after many years limping by using a worktop made from a re-cycled stout ledge-and-brace door, I'm now replacing the worktop with a solid-core firedoor, with 12mm MDF sheet bonded on top.

Since I'm a pretty messy worker, I intend to add to the top a 3mm surface sheet of MDF, which can be removed and replaced when it gets too stained/worn/uneven/damaged. The question is : how to fix it so that it is removable and replaceable?

I'm thinking I can use a few, small, strategically-placed brass screws to make sure there is no lateral movement - countersunk enough to ensure no damaging encounters with tools. But I think it should also be lightly glued down - emphasize **lightly** :) - enough to resist lifting around edges & dog-holes etc.

My question is : what type of glue is most appropriate for this purpose? The most important factor is reversability - it must be possible to lift this thin surface sheet in a few years time, and replace it when it is too knackered. Strong adhesion is not an important factor.

My experience to date with glues is fairly limited : simple PVA glues & an occassional use of Polyurethane. Now and then I've used modern replacements (e.g. Titebond hide glue) for traditional hide/scotch glues in furniture restoration.

From researching on Google, there seem to be three possibilities - but in all three cases I'm unsure how one would eventually 'unfix' a large sheet of 3mm MDF so it can be replace. There seems to be little clear information about 'reversible' glues on the internet :

1. Using vegetable paste glue (wheat or rice glue) - basically flour paste/wallpaper paste - which will dissolve in water. But how to make the water penetrate under a large sheet if MDF?
2. Real, old-fashioned animal (hide) glue - the animal-protein sort you heat up in a pot. Some literature seems to suggest it an be de-bonded with heat (on a 3mm surface, perhaps ironing? or blowing with a heat gun?). Other literature suggest water/steam is needed (how to get that under a large sheet?)
3. Hot-melt glue (white glue-sticks, dispensed from a glue gun). My impression is that heat (iron/heat gun through 3mm MDF) will re-melt the glue and release the bond. But I presume it isn't water-soluble like 1 & 2, so will it clean up OK? Can I smoothly fix a replacement surface?

Hope I've been clear, and sorry for being so long-winded. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Regards

baldpate

Knob Placement on Cabinet doors.

Leo G — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:15:00 GMT

Cabinetman & I were having a discussion about the knob placement on my recent post of the white vanity. He wan't fond of where I put the knobs on the center cabinet and the tall cabinet. I photo shopped the cabinets and put them where he like them.

Now as a general discussion, which do you prefer?

Existing version

Photo shopped version

So, what do you guys prefer, and maybe state why if you feel in the mood to type.